In her review of "Cooked," Bee Wilson writes that Pollan's lack of pragmatism "widens the gap between cooks and noncooks," thus defeating the premise of the book that cooking our own meals is essential to our health and the planet's health. Ms. Wilson's example: a time-consuming slow braise not practical for the typical rushed cook.
Ms. Wilson misses the point. "Cooked" is about transformation--the alchemy of cooking, the cook 's wonder at the process of cooking. Once our awareness is raised, there are many cooking primers available to teach us how to speed things up to fit our busy schedules. And maybe we can even slow down our busy lives just a little--stop and smell the rosemary.
What do you think?
Here's the review: