Guess he chose to pick something that aligned well to his recent posting with The Times in Italy.
I'm sure some Bataliphiles will pick the review to shreds, but I thought it captured the place quite well -- cutting edge Italian-inspired cuisine with an atmosphere that's not quite four star (when compared with something like Per Se or Daniel). Between Hesser's treatise in her Masa review on the difference between three and four stars and Bruni's discussion of it (nutshell: great food alone without exceptional service/ambience will never earn you a fourth star), I'm betting that he's going to focus in the coming months on shaking things up a bit. A few lesser lights need elevating and prior kings of the hill deflating (Daniel Boulud humbled a bit?).
Not exactly sure what the vegan Moby would find to eat in this temple of animal parts, however...
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