Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area

Noodle Alcove, Chinatown, Boston


Restaurants & Bars

Noodle Alcove, Chinatown, Boston

Limster | May 11, 2003 01:19 AM

Was intrigued by galleygirl's mention of handpulled noodles (see link below) and got a gang together to try out this place. The menu features dishes from a fairly diverse geography. There are a number of Sichuan dishes (e.g. those with chillis and hot oils) among the large repeitoire of Shandong/Beijing dishes (e.g. handpulled noodles, some fo the fried dishes and a fair number of the appetizers in the Chinese only section), and maybe a few dishes that might be more at home in the Eastern parts of China (e.g. mustard greens with green soy beans and those dishes with Shanghai labels).

Jellyfish was better than most, showed excellent heft and a soft jiggly crunch. Lightly flavoured and chilled, this can a good dish to enjoy during the hotter summer months.

jiang4 niu2 rou4/sliced soy cooked beef is excellent. "Just like my mother's," according to a Beijing friend. We agreed it was better than the version at Wang's Fast Food, primarily because the veins of gelatin were richer and tenderness more pronounced.

Two soup noodles performed admirably: pork and seafood, both with savoury flavours and precisely cooked ingredients. The handpulled noodles are good and they display a textural depth beyond the usual offerings here. Still, I wished that the noodles were pulled and cooked to a slight chewiness that I prize, but instead they were soft.

Pea shoots were par, fresh and given a good quick wokking, but slightly fibrous in parts.

Chung King spicy chicken is decent, but the version at Qingdao is fair superior, the critical difference being that Qingdao uses a generous pile of dried chillis to impart the characteristic smoky flavour, while these guys use fresh chillis, thus loosing some of the flavour.

Kan Shao Yellow Fish was a hit, a fried whole fish in a garlicky sweet/spicy brown sauce.

Fairly good on the whole. A reasonable replacement for Peking Cuisine (the previous occupant), which offered a slightly similar repeitoire of dishes. We inquired and were told that they are planning to offer dumplings and other Northern Chinese breakfast foods for "dim sum" soon; hope they'll offer Tianjin style dumpling.


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