deb and i just returned from two weeks in rome. weather was cold but the city is cool.
we rented an apartment on the via giulia. this is our third year on the same street.
food is important to us. maureen b. fant showed deb the ropes at a local market. they cooked what they bought and i reaped the benefits. thanks maureen!
some restaurants we liked include:
ditirambo. it continues to impress with apps, pasta, bread and wine. the tonnarelli cacio e pepe is outstanding. sfoglie di melanzane croccanti con totanetti arrosto, broccoletti e pecorino “brunelli” is a killer app. so too the mousse di baccalà con sfoglie croccanti al sesamo e pesto di prezzemolo. ask your server for a good wine pairing.
il drappo is a tiny restaurant off the via giulia. it's sardinian. reservations are a must. you have to press the buzzer to get in. the effort is worth it. this is old school so be sure to dress up a bit. the suckling pig is the best. the family runs the front of the house. plan on spending two hours or more. it's all good.
trimani wine bar is a worthy lunch time destination. start with some prosecco, a few nibbles and proceed to explore some seriously decent wines. we've been hanging out here for late lunches/early dinners for years. the wines are wonderful. hit up cul de sac off navona if you're in the neighborhood and slightly less adventurous (watch out for the cramped little tables).
armando al pantheon is a solid lunch destination. the bruschetta with lardo alone is worth braving the hawkers at the piazza. stick with the pastas and avoid the secondi. desserts are wonderful. trust your server to suggest wines.
aristocampo. sometimes you need a porchetta sandwich with a full liter of beer. go late at night when the food tastes better. a salumi platter is ok if you pair it with a tocai. friday night is "cruise night". next door is lucky red ristopub where the bikers (harley dudes) hang out. you might even catch a vintage chevy or merc if you show up late enough.
baffetto 2 has decent pizza. the house wine is ok and the pizza with sausage tastes even better late at night. don't consider going before 10 p.m.. cheap and good.
lucifero on pellegrino is a decent place for a late night drink. not fancy. just a pleasant stop before walking the five flights of stairs that lead to our little rental apartment on the giulia.
cooking at home is good, too.