Restaurants & Bars

Newport, RI seafood

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Newport, RI seafood

Bilmo | May 3, 2000 12:47 PM

Scales & Shells:
I've got to extoll the virtues of 2 of the greatest dishes I've had anywhere! Littlenecks Roberto is a pan of small clams in a red sauce just filled with chopped garlic. This had been a mainstay of mine until one day I decided to try the Vongole Sicilian, and man, I didn't think it was possible, but this is even better! Kind of the white version of Roberto, with an intense, almost funky flavor, like clear RI clam chowder concentrated to it's essence and spiked with garlic and hot pepper. Ambrosial! Don't get it over pasta, which dilutes the sauce. Just eat the clams and soak up the sauce with bread for full effect.

Seafood here is consistently excellent, but more involved preparations can falter. Keep it simple and you can't go wrong. And, try the fried calamari and grilled shrimp while waiting at the bar.

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