Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area

Maurizio's, North End, Boston

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Maurizio's, North End, Boston

Limster | May 23, 2006 06:15 PM

Was disappointed at Maurizio's a few years ago, but decided give them a second try after reading about them in the Dig.

Formidably sized mazzamurru, a savoury "bread pudding," layers of rustic bread soaked in chicken broth, an intense tomato sauce weaving between the strata. Topped with an egg (nicely baked in with the rest of the dish) and pecorino.

Malloreddus, a Sardinian pasta with curled edges to resemble a little canoe and ridged for catching sauce, was a shade past al dente but much better than the overcooked pasta of a few years ago. The ragu with it was beautiful, the clarity of the vegetables evident: beneath the rich tomato sauce with the gravity of a meat stock was a breath of celery, the savoury sweetness of browned onions and the bright call of carrots. Tender pieces of slow cooked meat.

The veal scallopini was fine but not distinguished, the texture of the meat a little rougher than I would have preferred.

A grilled hunk of dense, meaty swordfish was better, a pleasure with the bitter edge of arugula and the mellow tang of yellow tomatoes. Impressive asparagus, thick, juicy, snappy and full of verdant spring; a sign of a kitchen in touch with the season.

A nice window into Sardinia with a couple of dishes from that region, although there's quite a number of more "basic" Italian dishes from all over (fried calamari, gnocchi bolognese etc...). Generally happy with the meal and would likely return soon to try their grilled lamb. (wish they had suckling pig or game birds....)

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