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Some love for True Bistro


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Some love for True Bistro

Bob Dobalina | | Dec 29, 2011 07:25 AM

I wanted to give a special post to True Bistro for an excellent meal last night, regardless of how you might feel about the vegan business (I am not a member of the club). Everything we tried was just outstanding.

Soup of the day was a red lentil with house-made "sour cream" and Moroccan spices - consistency was a fine puree, warm and warming from the spices, and just about the best bowl of soup I've had in several months. Just perfectly balanced in flavor, texture and temp.

DW had the Mesclun greens salad with green olives, toasted almonds, and lemon-caper vinaigrette. Simple, really fresh and flavorful. I had a few bites before my soup and could easily have chowed down the whole thing.

For dinner, I had the green curry with fried tofu, mizuna & bok choy, maitake mushrooms, black rice cake. The black rice cake was awesome - grains that were firm with just the right amount of chew - perfectly cooked - love the nutty flavor. The curry might be a little salty for some but worked really well with the veggie components. The mushrooms were a standout.

DW had the phyllo purse stuffed with seitan, roasted winter squash, green mole, arugula & pepitas. Did not try, but have had in the past - it was well received and the second half made it for leftovers.

Good drinks too -
Started with a Bermuda Rum Punch - Bermuda Black Rum, Bacardi Gold Rum, Bacardi White Rum, orange juice, pineapple juice, grenadine - good and strong!
Also a glass of pinot noir that balanced well with the curry.

Perhaps my positive reaction to the food was somewhat tinged with relief, after having been gifted and now reading "Eating Animals" by Jonathan Safran Foer, along with the DW talking a pretty good game about going vegetarian.

But I think a lot of vegan cooking tends to suffer from a lack of subtlety and true culinary care. Often, it's just about piling things up on a plate, or in a wrap (i.e., Life Alive, which I like for what it is.) Or crappy chow that gets excused because it's "healthy" or "ethical." But the chow and dining at True Bistro is truly cookery, not just non-meat, non-dairy, starchy assemblage. The chef, Stuart Reiter and sous chef, Giles Siddons (per the website) do not get mentioned with the hot chefs in Boston and I imagine that it might be a bit of snobbery or exclusivity against them for choosing not to use bacon. But the meal I had last night, while not to get too overblown, merits as much of a mention for craftsmanship as "regular" restaurants.

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