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Locally made Panetonne Notes


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Locally made Panetonne Notes

Gary Soup | Dec 13, 2005 12:25 PM

I’m not much of a carbohydrate fan, let alone a fan of sweets, but my walk to work gives me access to a number of places making fresh panettone (think globally, bake locally!) and I have a full-fledged tasting laboratory (a.k.a. “office”) available with at least a baker’s dozen open mouths at any given time, so as a public service I’ll post the impressions (both personal and collective).

First out of the oven was Acme, and I picked up one of their larger sized panettones on my customary Friday “end-around” via the FB jonesing for a chewy, intense sourdough cheese “croissant” (which Acme appears to have trashed). I don’t recall the weight or price, but it was a typical Acme bargain. I’m not sure if I personally sampled Acme’s panettone last year, but the one last Friday was more fruit-laden and thankfully less “brioche-y” than I thought I remembered from the past. There were no nuts in evidence (nuts). Ace Taster Paula, a loose vegetarian with taste buds calibrated to pastry, loved the anisette flavor infusing the bread.

Today I picked one up from Victoria Pastry, who also has had them at the ready for several days. It was $8.75 for a very large, squat 2-pounder with a big crown. (“Muffin tops!” she shouted, but no, it wasn’t crunchy.) Victoria’s panettone seems at once moister and airier than Acme’s. There is not much fruit in evidence other than a copious amount of raisins, and some candied lemon(?) rind but a strong candied citrus flavor permeates the bread. There was a cluster of pine nut on top. I thought the citrus infused flavor was a bit overpowering, but Ace Taster thought not. She also commented on the brioche quality of the bread. The other taster-elves are still at work on it, but it looks to be mostly gone by noon.

Next up will probably be Stella Pastry’s version. I stopped by this morning just as the early girl (yes, she could be called a tomato) was opening up. “Maybe tomorrow ,” she said. “I know we’re definitely making them this week.” I have yet to check Liguria’s timetable (they’ll take some planning, as they open later than I am in the neighborhood).

Does anybody know if the brioche place next to Hustler will be making panettone?

Acme is at the Ferry Building, and open earlier than their published schedule of 8:00 AM.

Victoria Pastry is at 1362 Stockton St., corner of Vallejo, and opens at 7:00 AM.

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