We're headed to Lisbon and will rent an apartment for a week or two there before wandering up north. While food and drink isn't my only concern, it's an important one and so I wonder if some of the Lisbon experts can offer guidance on which neighborhoods offer the most interesting concentrations of non-touristy (and reasonably priced) local and good restaurants, bars, and cafes. I know a little about the neighborhoods and have been to the city before but only stayed in central hotels. I tried to search for answers to this question on here but couldn't find threads that answered it.
While, for example, Alfama looks beautiful, it also seems like the kind of small and pretty place that might have a lot of touristy joints. I'm really familiar with Barcelona, and so I guess I wonder what would be the El Raval (or perhaps even Poble Sec or Ronda Sant Antoni) equivalents: a little edgy but with some interesting new places and classic old ones, near the more touristy areas but not too touristy itself? Basically a real living local neighborhood, not too posh, not too poor, and not a place primarily for travelers to sleep and workers to eat lunch.
I'm thinking maybe Graca, Castelo, Mouraria, perhaps Santos (though that seems more hipster than the others). I'm not exactly sure how Bairro Alto fits into this continuum of and it's hard to answer this question of ambience and feel from research alone. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for the guidance.