Long time Chow Hound members may recall that I have mentioned this place a few times when people ask for traditional cuisine, but after biannual trips since 2009 it is time to write it up.
The location at the corner of Rue du Theatre and Georges Citerne in the 15th is not exactly a tourist magnet so you must be purpose driven to run across it; we only discovered it when we rented an apt. across the street in 2009 shortly after it opened.
Traditional cuisine in this case means in the vein of Taillevent and Plaza Athénée where the chef/owner worked for over a decade. The tables are nicely dressed, the decor is soothing with nice lighting and artwork and no intrusive music...I know, I know get to the food. Our favorite starters are a classic Ravioles de Royans in a rich cheese sauce, bouchées de langoustine in an orange sauce, and the ravigote of crab.
My favorite main is the generous and top quality côte de boeuf when someone is willing to share, as it is for two. Ms. L. is not a beef maniac so she usually gets the filet d'agneau or we get the Côte de veau for two.
This is all under "The Venerable's"category of boring food but if perchance you get over-dosed with David Toutain (no chance), Inaki or Pierre and crave traditional cuisine in a nice setting with approachable prices you could do worse.
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