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Boston Area Late-Night Dining

late night graze at Via Matta

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late night graze at Via Matta

MC Slim JB | Jun 6, 2004 02:39 PM

Snagged a late night table for two at Via Matta in pursuit of a light meal. Still packed and buzzing at 10:30p. Generous pour of grass-green, sweet EVOO, with excellent, chewy-crusted Tuscan bread. We ordered just enough food: app of crunchy eggplant, the best version of this I've had yet here; an antipasto Tuscano, very simple plate of a couple of cold cuts (salami, mortadella), a salty hard cheese (ricotta salata, maybe), pickled onions, good oil, olives; a fabulous tagliatelle Bolognese, with obviously fresh pasta.

Trio of semifreddi for dessert (chocolate, banana, and pistachio, all lovely), and biscotti. Very good service (not slacking off even at the tail end of the night), a loud, loud room (with a beat-heavy downtempo soundtrack).

My only complaint is that the wine prices have gone steadily up to the point of absurdity, only a bottle or two under about $45, not right at all. I found a Barbera D'Asti for $28 (really too young at first blush, but it seemed to improve in the glass). That brought the bill with tax to $90. That kind of gouging always annoys me, since this kind of food really calls for wine, just not necessarily the kind that retails for $40 (and shows up here for $95). I'd go back a lot more often if they fixed this small but crucial detail.

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