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La Terza review - longish

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La Terza review - longish

chowchick | Feb 9, 2005 03:15 PM

This is Nancy Silverton's fave place (per LAT)?! Sorely disappointed:

We started with two uninspired apps... nothing spoke to me, so I made the embarrasingly pedestrian choice of proscuitto and burrata, which was desperately in need of good sea salt and good olive oil, and unattractive on the plate - could have used some arugula for color. My dining companion had a trite salad of baby greens, grapes, and pomegranate... dullsville. In retrospect, I should have gone for the lentil dish with roasted chicken and a fried egg... ah the regret... also their salami plate seemed interesting (did not ask if house-cured) but my partner vetoed it.

He followed with anglotti filled with osso buco and ricotta in a very light butter sauce - these were pleasantly unctuous when they arrived hot, but as they sat grew increasingly heavy, greasy, and strangely metallic. I had, on the waiter's insistence, the Tuesday special of veal shank roasted in their wood-burning oven. The meat itself had excellent flavor but was extremely difficult to cut with the standard knife provided, forcing me to saw unattractively. It was carved tableside and served atop a root vegetable puree (exact veg unknown, had no dominant flavor) with a sticky veal reduction. Again, unattractive plating -all brown and white, some rapini would have been a nice punch-up.

With this we drank an cliche chianti. Not my choice, and can't say much for the wine list, as my partner chauvanistically hoarded it.

And for dessert we tried Silverton's famed ricotta fritters served with mascarpone ice cream and huckleberry compote. Oh, the disappointment! Ice cream too rich and too cold (had to hack off chunks) and too little of it besides (always seems to be a problem - why?). Fritters tasted like all the other fried dough balls I've had that are inexplicably still the rage... blah. Not much improved by the excess of weak-tasting purple fruit slopping around the bowl... a total miss.

Needless to say, I will not be going back. Especially as the waiter, after hearing it was our first time at the restaurant, proceeded to explain every word on the menu - talk about an insult! Do I really look like I need to be explained what branzino is???!!!!

Stick with Angelini Osteria. Unless, of course, this was just a terribly off night mixed with poor choices... anyone had a good experience here?

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