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France

La Cabotte, Nuits-St-Georges

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La Cabotte, Nuits-St-Georges

jeremyholmes | Jun 12, 2011 09:42 PM

This little, modern restaurant in the heart of Nuits-St-Georges has changed hands a couple of years ago but the food, service and atmosphere remain high and the wine list has been improved somewhat and now there is a good selection of top Burgs at reasonable prices.

We were taken to lunch by Jean-Claude Boisset winemaker Gregory Patriat and were offered an amuse of cornet filled with smoked salmon and crème fraiche as soon as we were seated. It was fresh, lively and inviting. Gregory had brought along his 2008 Marsannay Blanc, which still has fizzing acidity but has softened a little in the bottle to show nice aromas and flavours of preserved lemons and minerals. It was very good with a second amuse of Crème fraiche mixed with shallots and cornichons with asparagus.

Over lunch much of the topic of conversation was centered on the playing of practical jokes on our friend Jean-Marc Vincent in Santenay. As we were to see Jean-Marc later that afternoon Gregory insisted that I give him a ‘nipple cripple’. As we drove down the Cote later that afternoon I was limbering up the thumb and forefinger on my right hand but once we met I was distracted and forgot to give him a little tweak.

Entrees were confit potato slices with snails and lettuce for Heidi and Salmon tartare with tonka beans for me. Both dishes were clean, vibrant and full of bold flavours, using the freshest of ingredients.

Gregory opened his 2009 Nuits-St-Georges ‘Les Charbonnieres’ after the Marsannay and it was very young but drinking well. There were ripe black fruits, purple flowers and some floral/sappy notes from the inclusion of some stems. It is a delicious, mid-weight Nuits with plenty of mineral character. The wine partnered my24 hour cooked pork beautifully. The pork was rich and sticky but if I have one criticism it could have done with an extra hour of cooking. The purple skinned potatoes that accompanied were delicious. Heidi’s Dorade with a saffron and chorizo sauce was less successful with the red but a great dish none the less.

A plate with a small piece of four local cheeses preceded a wonderful dessert of Trifle with fresh strawberries. La Cabotte is at the top of its game, serving both locals and tourists with warmth and generosity and turning out food that is right up there with the best of region

Cheers
Jeremy

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