Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan

La Bonne Soupe

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La Bonne Soupe

Eddie Bennet | Dec 22, 2000 07:38 AM

Two nights ago, in a desperate attempt to seek out fondue without traveling downtown, I decided to give La Bonne Soupe a try. What a mistake. As the yellowed fabric on the walls should indicate, this is a restaurant that after 25 years, is way past any prime some claim it once had. I started with the restaurants often touted onion soup. The soup was o.k., but nothing special. Well coated in gruyere cheese, the soup lacked any depth of flavour and was missing the dash of cognac or dry sherry that good onion soup should have. The cheese fondue was nothing short of awful. The cheese had a granular quality and a very strong and unpleasant alcohol flavour. It was as if the fondue had been re-heated (a putrid thought) and someone tossed in a cup of kirsch or white wine at the last moment, without letting the alcohol cook off. The steak frites was consistant with the rest of the meal. The piece of skirt steak had been prepared well, nicely carmelized on the outside and rare as ordered. Yet, it was devoid of any hint of flavour. The frites were pale and greasy. If you find yourself stuck at La Bonne Soupe it will be difficult to drink you problems away. The small wine list consits of a mediocre Mouton-Cadet for $28 another red for $32 and the rest of the bottles costing $42 or higher. Aside from a small group of French speaking regulars, the rest of the restaurant was occupied by tourists, La Bonne Soupe is best left to them.

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