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Kuala Lumpur - Hoity-Toity Malay at Flavours

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Kuala Lumpur - Hoity-Toity Malay at Flavours

klyeoh | Sep 20, 2012 07:01 AM

Finally got round to try Chef Riz's Flavours restaurant this evening. Chef Riz (Full name: Nadzri Redzuawan) was one of the judges in Masterchef Malaysia last season. But he's actually better known as the son of Chef Wan (Full name: Redzuawan Ismail), the best-known TV-celebrity chef in Malaysian history! Anyone & everyone in Malaysia (and Singapore) *knows* Chef Wan.

But back to Chef Riz's newest venture: Flavours offers an intriguing spread of Malay, casual Western and Malay-influenced bistro fare, like pastas spiked with explosive "cili padi", Malaysia's version of habanero chili.

What I tried today was its signature dish: the "Nasi Malaya" (or Malayan Rice), which consisted of steamed white rice, accompanied by
- Beef Lemak Cili Padi - Tender, stewed beef in a rich coconut-turmeric sauce, with some strong heat coming from the "cili padi")
- Sambal tumis Petai - Ttwo unshelled shrimps and "petai" or stink-beans, cooked with pounded red chillis. The shrimps were the frozen sort, not as fresh as I expected. Two measly "petai" beans were way too miserly for me. Pity.
- Kerabu Apple - green apple salad, with a lot of chopped, ultra-spicy chilis & finely-sliced kaffir lime leaves thrown in, but nothing much else. A small whole salted fish mounted on the salad was not groundbreaking. Maybe I had overly high expectations.
- Ayam Kampung Goreng, which is deep-fried "village"chicken. It's tasty.

Like many upmarket ethnic Malay restaurants in KL (e.g. Bijan, Enak, Bunga Emas, Songket), the challenge is to sell Malay food to Malays at vastly inflated prices, to account for more comfy, jazzy ambience. Malay cuisine does not possess that dichotomy between "home-cooking" and "restaurant-cooking", or between "casual" versus "fine-dining" which one finds in most other types of cuisines.

Hence, one gets served, say, "beef rendang", "ikan panggang" or "ayam goreng", whether one dines in a street-side eatery or a deluxe fine-dining restaurant - except that one can expect to pay 3-10 times as much for the same dishes, depending on where one is eating.

At Flavours, the RM28++ charged for the "Nasi Malaya" is reasonable, considering the upmarket neighborhood, and comparable to prices charged in other restaurants in the same precinct. But it'll be a challenge to convince local diners, especially ethnic-Malays who would be Flavours' target market, to part with that amount of money for what they can get at home, or at a street-side food stall.

My drink of iced rose syrup with a squeeze of calamansi lime, at RM8++, is also perhaps 4 times what one would pay for the same stuff in a casual Malay eatery.

Maybe Chef Wan should make more appearances at the restaurant - his star presence would probably boost the clientele, more than any good cooking at inflated prices.

Address details
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Flavours
51 Jalan Telawi 3
Bangsar Baru
59100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603-2201 4484

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