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Kouzina in Waban Report

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Restaurants & Bars

Kouzina in Waban Report

C. Simon | Jan 11, 2003 07:23 AM

Greek-inspired American bistro food, I suppose.

The bread basket may be the best part of the meal. Crusty slices of a baguette, charred pita, and dense Greek bread of some kind are the perfect media to sop up a bright olive oil laced with a tapenade which I couldn't quite place.

The fig tart with feta cheese and greens would have succeeded if not for the too-rich pastry, which added uncessary richness to the dense fig flavor. This could have been solved if the tart had been served with serrano ham, as advertised on the menu.

The sampler plate of tzatziki, grape leaves, hummus, etc., was perfectly fine but lacked the vibrant flavors that the best Greek food has.

Either Kouzina's pastitsio was twist on the traditional Greek dish, or it exposed my ignorance of traditional Greek cuisine. Rather than the layered lasagne-like dish to which I am accustomed, the pasta in Kouzina's pastitsio is wrapped into a crepe form, like a crespelle. This presentation neither detracted from nor enhanced the rich flavor of the ground beef and bechamel sauce, which was offset nicely by the tangyness of some goat cheese. A definite winner.

The menu was so full of temptations that it was difficult to choose. Mussels marienere at the table next to us was a huge bowl of mussels with a butter sauce in a cermakin in the middle. The whole roasted branzino also looked good, as did the grilled lamb chops. Another time, perhaps.

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