Restaurants & Bars

New York State (exc. NYC)

Kneaded Bread in Port Chester


Restaurants & Bars New York State (exc. NYC)

Kneaded Bread in Port Chester

Jim Leff | | Jul 5, 2014 04:37 PM

Nobody talks much about Kneaded Bread (181 N Main St, Port Chester). It preceded the goormay incursion in Port Chester, which I guess relegates it to "townie" status amid the likes of Tarry Market, etc etc. But they've been baking really well for years now.

I stopped in today for two very tricky items: a cheese danish (when was the last time you had a truly great cheese danish?) and a whole wheat croissant, which I'm told is so hard to do well it's nearly a contradiction in terms. I've never had one worth a damn.

The danish was a master class in balance. It's not a tricky thing to bake, but so many factors need to be in balance for it to really pop. And pop it did; the sweet glaze, the buttery bland crust, the cheese texture and proportion and the nearly subliminal lemon all worked together to create an ur-cheese danish. The danish you dream in your dreams of cheese danish. Right on point.

And I've never had a successful whole wheat croissant before. Few even attempt it. It had the flavor/aroma/texture of the bran and germ, but it wasn't weighed down in the least. Really couldn't find anything the least bit wrong.

This place deserves way more respect. Nothing fancy, but the skill and touch just can't be beat, even compared to, say, City Bakery.

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