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Klas Revisited/Update

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Klas Revisited/Update

El Panzone | Feb 23, 2004 11:39 AM

Enjoy Yourself! It May be Later than You Think.

"So reads the slightly ominous greeting on Klas’ menu. This monument to Bohemian food has been on Cermak since 1922 and is one of the few remaining Eastern European businesses on that stretch. Who knows how much longer it will hold on? From what I understand new owners took over not long ago but I don’t think much has changed so that’s a very good sign."

The above was the lede of Rene G's post on Klas late last year. I've eaten there several times since, most recently Sunday, and it remains a wonder.

For the first time, I got there early enough to take advantage of their salad bar. (all dinner entree's include salad bar, soup, dessert and coffee, tea)
For those who like fresh cole slaw, resistance is futile as several wonderful well made choices are available.

However, I know better than to fill up on red cabbage, special slaws and yummy rye bread baked on the premises. On weekends, there is a wonderful sweet eggy almond bread, which, like the rye and the dumplings, can be bought as one departs.

One of the many Sunday specials was the pork medallions a la Klas, which i had to try. Three! pork medallions, wrapped in thick bacon, sitting on a Klas sauce with small bits of mushrooms! I had potato dumplings and sauerkraut as sides but one of these times i'm gonna get the homemade mashed potatos.

For dessert, i opted for the thick rice pudding, but have to try a kolacky--they look great and are the most popular.

Of course, such a spread made this the most expensive special of the day--at $10 (yes only a single zero after the one).

The new, (about 6 to 8 months?) owners are a young brother and sister who say they will be finalizing a new menu, with slightly higher prices, in a few weeks. One addition, they promised, would be chicken paprikash, which I have been wanting to try.

The space is fantastic, with cathedral doors and stained glass and old dark wood. it appears the structure was modeled upon the tower on the Charles
bridge--the major bridge in Prague.

here's the rest of Rene G's post, which i cannot improve upon:

"I’ve known of Klas for quite a while but never managed to visit. I finally stopped in for a quick beer and to glance at the menu. After over 4 hours, many steins of beer, and several pounds of food I happily staggered out. I was unprepared for how special Klas is.

To your right as you enter there’s a small dark bar, well worth a visit. Lots of carved wood, stained glass, and taxidermy, all very atmospheric. Three Czech beers on tap for a very reasonable $3.50 per half-liter stein. The bar was half full early Saturday evening and all the conversations were in initially in Czech. I spent several hours discussing (in English) Cicero, food, books, politics, and who knows what else. I was surprised I was the only one familiar with the klobosy at Jim’s Market (I think they were even more surprised that someone unable to properly pronounce Vesecky’s knew anything about klobosy).

Originally I hadn’t planned to eat but after all that talking I was hungry. Good thing, there’s no such thing as a small meal at Klas. Dinner starts with soup and bread. Liver dumpling soup was tasty, with a thin beef broth and a large, livery dumpling. Rye bread (baked in house I believe) was extraordinary, with a beautiful springy texture and good crust. Then a trip to the small but nice salad bar. Among other things there were five versions of cabbage salad, each very different and extremely fresh. That would have made a satisfying meal right there but then came my plate of svickova (pickled beef) with two gigantic slices of bread dumpling, all covered with about a pint of sour cream gravy. A garnish of thinly sliced lemon added a lot. All very good, especially the dumplings which were about as light as dumplings soaking in gravy can be. For dessert I had rice pudding, a very dense, rice-intensive version. Full dinner prices range from $6.25 (meatloaf) to $10.95 for the Bohemian Plate (I can hardly imagine the size of that one).

The old-fashioned main dining room is pleasant and there are lots of old curios around (Al Capone’s deck of cards is on display in the foyer). Fresh linen tablecloths and napkins are used and service was more than competent. All in all, an astounding value.

I think they now have a special additional menu for the holidays. I just might have to return soon for a plate of roast goose with dumplings and cabbage. I can’t wait to try some of the other Czech places as well, especially Bohemian Crystal.

Klas Restaurant
"Enjoy Yourself! It May be Later than You Think."
5734 W Cermak Rd (a few blocks west of Blue Line 54/Cermak stop)
Cicero IL
708-652-0795
Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week

Image: http://www.experienceprague.com/pics_...

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