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Kevil's in Forest Park--and "Snooky's"

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Kevil's in Forest Park--and "Snooky's"

Ann Fisher | Feb 12, 2004 08:51 PM

If you're looking for the bottom line, it's probably don't bother, at least for the food. But it's a wonderful looking bar, with Blue Moon on tap and men smoking giant cigars at the bar.
The dining room is nice, despite being basically a windowless back room, with a small fireplace at one end. The menu is very limited, not necessarily a bad thing, plus a handful of daily specials. We ordered one mystery appetizer, called "Snooky's" (sic) on the menu, with no further explanation. It turns out to be squares of cocktail rye, covered with chopped raw scallions in something, maybe a sour cream/mayo mixture or maybe just sour cream, and topped with a slice of mozzarella and then run under the broiler just long enough to soften the mozzarella. I announced it was just like creamed herring on rye, minus the herring and plus the mozzarella, but no one else thought that description was as perfect as I did. I notice that the on-line menu, unlike the menu at the restaurant, does describe it, though they call it swiss cheese and our waitress, I do believe correctly, said it was mozzarella.
The soup was what they called a sausage gumbo. I call it chicken rice soup with giant hunks of not very spicy sausage. Saltier than most people prefer--though not too salty for me. I had one of the specials, a chicken pot pie. Reminded me of a soup thread a few weeks ago in which various individuals, including me, expressed a strong dislike for mucilaginous soups. Enough said. The guys had the beef, and that was clearly the way to go. Ed's London broil was correctly cooked and nicely flavored though somewhat tough. Bill's butt steak was even better. Both came with a bunch of home-fried onions--delicious. Bill's side was mashed sweet potatoes, also very good, and Ed's was garlic mashed garlic potatoes, also fine. The short dessert list includes rainbow sherbet, but we opted for the brownie sundae. Just what you'd expect, done perfectly well.
I don't know that we'll be rushing back for dinner, but I might try a hamburger at lunch some time. And if you're looking for snookies, I can't think of a better place.

Link: http://www.kevils.com

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