You could pass by Kababish a hundred times and not go in. I have. It looks like a tired steam-table joint where you'd be lucky to get a curry made that day. But today I had spent an hour vainly searching for good Indian food all along Hillside Av in Jamaica, and I was desperate. And over the cash register was a sign saying, "Special! Karahi Gosht or Chicken MADE TO ORDER!" Made to order were the magic words, so after checking with the friendly owner that it would indeed be made just for me, I asked for the lamb (Gosht).
And after ten minutes, a waiter proudly bore a tray to my table. There was the lamb, several tender lamb chops in a deep bowl with a lovely red sauce. There were a few tomatoes in the bowl, a pepper, a slice of pickled green mango, slivers of fresh ginger, a liberal dusting of cilantro -- everything, in short, except curry powder. All the spices were fresh or freshly ground. It was a rich, multilayered, slightly tart sauce, with a thicker white slurry mixed in with the red oil. (I've seen similar at Mina's, but the place this dish reminded me of most is the incredible but long-gone Tabaq.) And it was delicious. I ordered a big fluffy nan, which was made to order too. And all for $11. There was even a free salad.
I hope you eat here every day, said the owner as I left. I just might, too, except that I think that apart from this one dish, everything is from the steam table. So maybe it's a one trick pony. But it's quite a trick!
Kababish, 37-66 74th Street, Jackson Heights (on the corner of 37 place near the Indian movie theater, and a 30 second walk from Jackson Diner) There's another branch on Broadway but they don't serve the Karahi.
The owners are actually Pakistani, but the card says "Pakistani Indian Bangladeshi", hence the title of this post. They do a few Afghan dishes too.
3766 74th St, Queens, NY 11372
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