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JoJo, last night

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Restaurants & Bars

JoJo, last night

newsjoke | Dec 25, 2003 08:32 AM

Being a huge fan of Jean-Georges (the restaurant, not necessarily ALL of his restaurants), my girlfriend "dragged" me to JoJo last night, where I had never been and she-- of a less adventurous palate than I-- had always told me was one of her favorite places. (I say "dragged" because I have a strong aversion to $75/person restaurants. I'd much rather eat large quantities of fabulously tasty ethnic food for, say, $35/person and make the occasional $150/person splurge at-- yes-- Jean-Georges, than eat a series of less-than-memorable $75/person meals.)

Regardless, with her wanting a nice romantic place for Christmas Eve (and JoJo certainly is beautiful, although the tables are so packed together, it's not very conducive to conversation), we went there, and I was actually quite impressed with the food and, *IF* one orders with care, the prices.

For instance, I had an absolutely delicious tuna-roll appetizer ($13) and, for $18, a perfectly prepared codfish entree (although the accompanying small lumps of a green-colored potato-like substance were rather dry and unpleasant). My girlfriend, for an appetizer, had a crabmeat-on-potato-chip-like-thing that was okay but, we both agreed, not as good as my tuna roll, and a nicely prepared piece of bass that we both agreed was good, but not quite as good as my cod and priced, as I recall, $10 or so higher ($28?).

I skipped dessert (seeing as, this time of year, every office and house is filled with them, and I've had far too many lately, and will continue to, both later today and later this week), and she had a tasty baked pear, the price of which I don't remember, but I'm sure was under $10.

Conclusion: I think that at JoJo, if you order with an eye on those little numbers on the right-hand margin of the menu, you can get very high quality cooking at a very reasonable price. (Actually, in that regard, it reminds me of a much quieter version of Balthazar.) On the other hand, if you order WITHOUT looking at the prices, you'll probably still get good food, but the "reasonable value" factor will get thrown out the window, and it will wind up being just one of many perfectly decent, but way overpriced, restaurants.

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