Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area Cambridge

Itty's, Porter Exchange, Cambridge

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Restaurants & Bars 2

Itty's, Porter Exchange, Cambridge

Limster | Aug 3, 2002 08:54 PM

I had my heart set on una-don (broiled eel on rice) this evening, but when I saw una-tama-don (eel and egg on rice) on the menu I changed my heart quite quickly.

Done perfectly, this dish would epitomize a nameless but utterly familiar warmth and comfort. The version here is fine but a notch below the best ones I've had. They do a great job with egg, soft and half cooked at some points. It's great when the wet egg oozes into the rice and mingles with the terikayi-ish sauce.

The eel itself is fine, but the egg to eel ratio was tilted way too much in the way of egg, losing some of the rather desirable textural and flavor contrasts between eel and egg. There's just the right amount of sauce to drizzle through the rice, but it was slightly thin. (I like the sauce thick and rich as it burnishes the eel and wets the rice.)

Finished up with a pretty good adzuki filled pastry topped with a serious amount of (perhaps a bit too much) whipped cream from the Cafe Japonaise counter.

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