Restaurants & Bars

New Orleans

Indigo, Commander's and Galtoires

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Restaurants & Bars

Indigo, Commander's and Galtoires

David Williams | Apr 26, 2004 01:01 PM

Just returned from JazzFest and thought I'd report on our dining. Indigo has changed its menu, emphasizing appetizers more, although they still have six or eight entrees. I'd eaten there last April, and as much as I like the restaurant and the ambience, I think I'd rate it lower than before. Although a couple of the appetizers were great (especially the oyster stuffed plobanos), others were only so-so. They had "Buster" crabs (i.e., baby soft shells) as a special app, which I expected to be especially tasty and tender. They were presented very crunchy and tasing more of the coating than crab. For dinner, I ordered a salmon entree that was undistinguished and came out medium well, rather than medium as requested. Previously, I thought Indigo was within spitting distance of Nawlins finest. I could not say that currently. They seem to be aiming for more casual dining, rather than the high end New Orleans experience.

Commander's for dinner overall was excellent. Great service, appetizers and entrees. The only nit was the desserts. The table had bread pudding souffle, molten chocolate cake, and strawberry shortcake with local strawberries that were said to be at peak of season. All of the desserts were not at the same level as the entrees. The shortcake was a plain, rather hard biscuit and the strawberries were that good to begin and undersugared. By chance, that afternoon, I had purchased a quart of La. berries at the Whole Foods near JazzFest while waiting on a cab, and those berries plain were far superior. The molten cake, which I've had numerous times, was OK. The bread pudding souffle was runny.

Galatoires for dinner was very enjoyable. After 15 years away, I was convinced to have lunch at Galatoires last year and I was blown away by the oyster brochette and the softshell. I used to prefer my softshells sauteed, but now realize in the right hand, deepfrying is much better. Nobody does it better than Galtoires. Service in the upstairs was wonderful. Louie was our waiter. Ask for him if you can. He's one of the true classics.

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