Coffee & Tea

Southwest Coffeehouse

Iconik Coffee Roasters, Santa Fe: finally, the all-around coffeehouse I've been wishing for


Coffee & Tea Southwest Coffeehouse

Iconik Coffee Roasters, Santa Fe: finally, the all-around coffeehouse I've been wishing for

finlero | | Jun 1, 2013 02:23 PM

You know it's funny, it doesn't seem like a good coffeehouse should be that difficult to synthesize. The three things I really want are: great coffee, a small assortment of sweet and savory food that isn't repugnant, and a good place to sit. And yet in the four years I've lived in Santa Fe, nowhere has seemed to nail all three. Betterday, Holy Spirit, and arguably Downtown Subscription have great coffee, but none of them nail the food, and Holy Spirit is almost literally a hole in the wall. Counter Culture and Dulce have good food and nice spots to sit, but their coffee is middling. And many, many places pretty much fail across the board.

Enter Iconik Coffee Roasters, which opened a few months ago in the old Treehouse space, a block north of 2nd Street. This place is killin' on all fronts, with great house-roasted coffee, a super cool eclectic space, and a really impressive short food menu.

The coffee, all single origin, is roasted in a behemoth 1927 Vintage Otto Swadlo coffee roaster, with roasts leaning light, all well south of Viennese. Although they have a smallish, ok-looking La Marzocco espresso machine, single cup pour-over is the specialty here, and they have the requisite assortment of Hario gear to make it happen. For my tastes, the roast was a little sharp and the brew tasted a little overextracted, but understand that I'm quibbling here on style, not competence. Yes, I still prefer the smoothness of Third Wave stalwarts Stumptown and especially Intelligentsia (those sellouts!), but Iconik's product has craft and character, and was a pleasure to drink. I'll also note that they have an excellent looking array of hot and iced teas, as well as some other tasty sounding drinks (think strawberry mint lemonade).

I liked the sunny, spacious digs when the Treehouse was in the space, but Iconik has really put a personal stamp on it with eclectic vintage and industrial accents and a nice array of small tables, counter and communal seating, and a couch or two. Staff are personable, and although they skew hipster, neither they nor the clientele are as insufferably hipper-than-thou as everyone over at Betterday.

Iconik's real differentiator, though, is the genuinely outstanding food. They appear to make one batch each of savory and sweet scones every day. The bacon, brie, fig, and walnut scone looked fantastic, but I opted for the utterly stellar apricot, pecan, and goat cheese one instead, which was served thoughtfully with a fresh strawberry garnish. Mark Bittman would love the small kitchen menu, heavy on fresh local produce, with the inclusion small amounts of protein. We're talking kale salad, a spinach, garlic potato, tomato, and goat cheese frittata, and an egg and green chile bagel sandwich with Jolly Hog bacon.

Different sources list different hours, so they're open from 7:30/8/8:30 to 4/6 depending on who you believe and what day it is. I'm so very happy this place has arrived, I have every intention of becoming a regular.

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