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CWFOODIE | | Jan 23, 2014 06:42 AM

Ichikawa is located in Setagaya-ku, far removed from the hustle bustle of Tokyo. Diners probably are making a special trip for the meal. Ichikawa-san is a young chef in his mid to late 30s. Before nigiris came 3 pieces of tai, steamed abalone, shirako in stock and grilled amadai. Apart from the shirako (the stock amplifies the richness of the shirako), the appetizers were pedestrian.

Nigiris served include sayori, aji, ika, akami zuke, chutoro, otoro, kohada, kasugo, hamaguri, anago, grilled nodoguro sushi and finally the tamago. I was made aware that Ichikawa is very particular about his maguro. I must say that I love his zuke, due more to the sauce than to the akami itself. Otherwise, I didn't find the maguro that impressive. I am quite partial to the shari and the kasugo. Otherwise, the food alone is not worth the special trip.

More disturbing was the flow of the meal. The chef worked at an extremely leisurely pace, taking his time with whatever he did. The chef seemed not to have paid attention to the pace of individual diners.

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