Restaurants & Bars

High Holborn: An Unqualified Success

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Restaurants & Bars

High Holborn: An Unqualified Success

Simon Majumdar | Feb 12, 2001 05:45 PM

So, Dos Hermanos Grossos ( that'll be me and my brother Robin ) decided to give the recent recipient of a whole Michelin Star a try. Personally, I always find the award of a star a thing of pain and suffering ( for us if not for them ) but I was persuaded, not least by the fact that I was not having to foot the bill.

However, I am delighted to say that the whole experience was a triumph. A couple of well prepared cocktails in the bar were followed by a meal of sophisticated cooking and superb service.

Starters of Foie Gras were fantastic. Slabs of the stuff served on a caramelised seville orange and roasted endive were as good as I have had in London, NY or anywhere. The glass of Barsac went with it wonderfully.

Main courses were a rabbit dish comprising of a stuffed leg which was rich but suffused with lemon and a saddle well trimmed and served with the small rich kidney and liver. I chowed down on a tete Au Porc which involved the cheeks, ear, nose and brain of the pig served with turned root vegetables and a wonderful reduction. The wine was a reasonable cote de Laungedoc at £28. There was also an unecessary but wholly enjoyable side dish of wild mushrooms reduced with cream and shallots.

Puddings which should normally be avoided unless one is a girl, were a one plate selection of minescules ( a tarte citron, Mousse Au Chocolat, Nougatine, rasberry Souffle and sorbet ) quite lovely and not too much.

The whole lot came to £150 including service, which is far from cheap but great value for money. The service throughout was friendly, prompt and enthusiastic. Not least they expressed a desire to only have one sitting per evening and so deserve a place in heaven.

In a world where GR and MPW are turning over two sittings a night and charging £300 for two, an outfit like this deserves all the success it can get and you just know I would not miss a chance to slam it if I had the chance.

Well worth a try

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