Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan

Heirloom visit

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Heirloom visit

JulesEV | Jan 9, 2006 06:39 AM

I ate at Heirloom, the new-ish vegetarian place opened by Matthew Kenney, on Friday night.

As other posters have mentioned, the food was just ok, definitely a notch below other veggie spots like Counter. The freebies are good though -- an amuse of warm cider with a touch of rum, and jalapeno hush puppies with creme fraiche or mustard butter. I started with a mixed greens salad with candied grapefruit and little toasted cheese sandwiches. The grapefruit was refreshing, but the cheese was a strange pairing. For mains, my friend had the "seafood" trio, made of different types of mushrooms. It was fine, just not very exciting. I had the moqueca, which I've thoroughly enjoyed at Brazilian restaurants. Typically it's a sort of tomato-coconut milk-based stew with seafood. Here, it was a thicker, more tomato-focused sauce with fried tofu perched atop it. I have to say I prefer the other versions I've had. If I could put my finger on the overall flaw in the food, it's an absence of spices, I think. The dishes sound intriguing on the menu, but when they arrive, they lack the zing you expect.

The ambiance is pleasant and the service was good, but I'll get my veggie fixes elsewhere.

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