i know it is rather un-chowhoundy of me to complain about restaurant reviews in major publications ...but here it goes.
i don't understand what the fascination with craft is about. mr. grimes on wednesday awarded craft three stars placing it in the same category as gramercy tavern. i love gramercy tavern. i have eaten there on many occasions enjoying both the simple tavern room and the more elaborate back room. one of the best meals of my life was the winter tasting menu offered at gramercy. I find it hard to believe that a "sirloin steak, rather pallid and a little dry...(and)crushed potatoes, although fine and good, have an irreducible plainness to them..." can sit on the same level as gramercy tavern. For the same amount of money as you would pay for a appetizer, main course (with no sides), and a paired down dessert, you could enjoy a multi-course tasting menu with the same ingredients as chef colicchio offers at craft.
i am not sure what i am really complaining about. i can't decide if it is the fact that the nytimes refuses to award non-french restaurants four stars or whether i just feel ripped off when i compare craft and gramercy tavern...
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