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Los Angeles Area

Grandpa Fred's Barbecue Woodland Hills

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Grandpa Fred's Barbecue Woodland Hills

Robert Bowen | Jun 11, 2004 03:18 PM

Right near where I work, on the corner of Victory and Variel, a new Barbecue joint opened up a few weeks back. At first I wasn't particularly interested in having a big mess of bland food, but a glance at the oddly pork-free menu piqued my curiosity and I headed over to check it out.

It turns out that the family running the place are African-american Muslims from Georgia, of all places. The menu features bbq favorites from that part of the world, but all halal. The first time I went, I had a "Georgia Cheesesteak" sandwich, with hot barbecue sauce, a side of collard greens and slaw.

The sandwhich was a big, juicy, meaty assemblage of sliced top sirloin and shredded mozarella on a decent, if unexceptional baguette. The meat was a bit fatty but cooked just right and decently tender.

The sauce in the sandwhich, however, was simply, utterly, amazing. I ordered "Hot" (choices include mild and medium if you aren't feeling brave), and the heat level was somewhere between hot Kim Chee and Nam phrik ong!! To say I was surprised would be an understatement. The sauce made an otherwise just "good" sandwhich an "amazing" sandwhich.

The collard greens were tender, pleasantly bitter but not greasy with hamhocks like the prototypical dish. The slaw was alright, but a bit too soupy and limp for my tastes.

I went back a few weeks later and had the sliced ribeye plate, also with hot sauce, and potato salad instead of coleslaw. The sliced ribeye was just as good as the sandwhich, although the potato salad was just OK.

My companion had a hot link sandwhich. The links were better than I would have expected, with crisp skins and not too-salty stuffing. He had corn as a side, which was canned but good.

Cost for an entree is around $7-9, which includes two sides.

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