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GOUST -- Run, Don't Walk!!


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Restaurants & Bars France

GOUST -- Run, Don't Walk!!

jock | | Apr 24, 2013 09:12 AM

This was like akin to our discovery of l’Astrance shortly after it opened. I predict that Goust will have a Michelin star next year and could easily have the two I think it deserves. With a couple of minor tweaks it could rate a third.

The room is quiet with tables well-spaced and set with quality fabrics, flatware and glasses. The room is elegant without being ostentatious. You could certainly get by without a jacket but you will be more comfortable if you have one.

Of the numerous two and three star meals I have had over the past thirty years I would place the food soundly in the center. A few were a bit better, many about the same and some a bit less good with a couple a lot less good (Ducasse).

They probably have more wine knowledge on the floor at any time than any restaurant in France, especially practical knowledge. If you really know wine the list is superb. If you know little or nothing and take their pairing suggestions you will be delighted and pleased when l‘addition arrives. Frankly, if you know a lot about wine you will be pleased with their pairings.

The only thing that might be improved was the service. If it is possible in France, it was a bit too attentive and a bit more intrusive than I would prefer. However, even that could be because we were inquisitive and interactive ourselves.

A two and one-half hour lunch:

Amuse bouche: one perfect oyster atop a vodka gelee with a hint of pineapple, topped with a yougurt crème and one perfect chizeau leaf. Delectable.

Next: Tuna tartare with capers and minced radishes. Topped with a faux egg with a yolk of mango coulis.

Next: Calamars on an onion/olive oil puree topped with perfect fried onion rings. The calamars was very large, divided for the two of us the portion was still large. Wonderfully tender, unlike most calamars. Both of the above with a dry, mineral-driven Spanish Albarino from Pazo de Senorans.

Next: A perfectly poached egg (likely sous vide) atop diced foie gras in a large bowl. An intense onion broth was ladled over. There was a bit of foam on top of the egg but it did not put me off like the ones that I find too cutsie and pretentious. Accompanied by a superb 2010 Meursault Limozin.

Next: Rose lamb loin wrapped with a thin layer of not-too-lamby fat. With baby eggplant and an eggplant puree. A rich, full-flavored St Emilion hit the sweet spot.

Next: Hazelnut millefeuille with yogurt meringue and one hard-caramel coated hazelnut. I wish I had a camera. The appearance of this dish was exquisite in its elegance and simplicity. By-the-way; very tasty too. A glass of Jurancon Doux – just right.

Last: Several migrandises including tiny hazelnuts coated with a very bitter chocolate to accompany our café.

The courses were complex without being complicated. I cannot, nor do I like to, keep track of 14 different ingredients. These dishes all kept the complexity going with just three or four.