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Gary Danko at seven - backstage at the show

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Gary Danko at seven - backstage at the show

rworange | Aug 11, 2006 03:26 PM

Gary Danko celebrates its seventh anniversary this week.

The Contra Costa Times had a good review this week with a little about the craft that goes into Danko's food. It actually made me think I might give Danko a second chance.

I had a less than impressive visit little over a year ago. My impression was that this restaurant was just phoning it in. They had the formula down and were cruising.

However, reading a little about how some of the dishes are prepared gave me a new interest. Nicholas Boer writes ...

"Sous chef Kolin Vazzoler likes to take two days to caramelize the red onions served with the seared foie gras, but burner space is at a premium at Gary Danko, so he often has to settle for an eight-hour braise in butter, balsamic vinegar, honey, veal stock and thyme"

Wow, settle for eight hours. If I ever took an hour to caramelize onions it was because I forgot they were on the stove.

There is info about how the fat in fois gras can develop an off flavor in high heat so the fat is removed as it is seared in a dry pan. The fava beans might just be from Danko's personal garden.

Anyway, this review armed with Chowhound hints since that visit (big thanks to Morton the Mousse) may cause me to drop in at Danko's next time I'm in the area.

CC Times on Gary Danko's
http://www.contracostatimes.com/mld/c...

Gary Danko Website (without flash
)http://www.garydanko.com/site/index.html

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