Restaurants & Bars 14

fried rice

Thi N. | Jan 1, 2003 07:30 PM

I posted this already on the L.A. board, as a prelude to a search for something similar in L.A., but I realized I should post here too.

Sister took the family to Ton Kiang in San Francisco during the holidays. Pretty decent food - strangely mediocre fried tofu stuffed with shrimp, for a Hakka place - but one special thing.

Now I've had fried rice my whole life. From the cheap brown soy-doused stuff of the neighborhood joint, to the higher class, I-am-told-more-authentic white, no-soy stuff of various hoity-toity Chinese restaurants. All were kind of greasy and sickly satisfying, and nothing memorable. I stopped eating fried rice completely about 5 years ago - I knew it was probably good-able somewhere, but I lost interest.

There, at Ton Kiang, my mother - from whom I think I inherited all my fervor for food - suddenly perks up and takes a deep inhale. "That fried rice. We have to order some fried rice."

This surprises the crud out of me. My mother, newly made health freak, has always been a force against fried rice, against fried anything. She says, "That smells right. That smells just like in Saigon."

We order it. The stuff comes. It is *intense*. No clumps, no sogginess. Each speck of rice is individual and firm and ever-so-slightly toasty. The frying has just intensified the flavor of the rice. There is some other stuff along with the rice, but it's unimportant.

My mother says, "This smells exactly like how the Chinese in the Chinese sector of Saigon made it. I haven't smelled it for years. No Chinese place in America I've ever been to has made it right."

I scarfed the rest down.

-thi

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