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The forty-five dollar salad at Jaan

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The forty-five dollar salad at Jaan

vidia | Jul 6, 2004 09:49 PM

I think there was an article in the LAT a while back about this and I finally got to try it, so thought I would post in case any of you were wondering.

First off, the restaurant Jaan is in the Raffles L'Ermitage Hotel on Burton Way in Beverly Hills. It's not a terribly atmospheric room, a little too small and the night I was there only three tables were occupied. Service, though, as you would expect from a fancy hotel, was impeccable.

The munu is a little 'book' that lists wine pairings by the side, which I thought was an excellent idea, but otherwise I found the descriptions a little too precious (what is a 'jidori' chicken???)

Anyway, on to the salad, which I had as a main. The reason it's $45 is it has a whole Maine lobster, some caviar and foie gras. There're some greens, and shaved truffles on top. So it's really an artery-clogger disguised as health food (and in that sense, really LA)! Every individual item on the plate tasted good - the foie gras, in particular, came with a jelly that paired really well. However, the whole was not more than the sum of its parts. It was as if the chef wanted to create the most expensive salad ever, and put together all manner of luxe items that didn't really match. It was like eating a sample plate rather than a dish that meshed.

Of the other dishes, we also tried the scallops, which were excellent, so fresh you could taste the sea on them, and the aforementioned chicken which was good but did not answer the question of what jidori is and what does it add to the chicken.

So I am glad I tried it, but I would probably not go back. Oh, the menu has been described as 'Asian' or 'Indonesian' in keeping with its ownership by the Raffles, a Singaporean chain. It is not. I'd call it 'Cal-fusion'. And portions are pretty small.

Link: http://www.lermitagehotel.com/

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