When master showman, Jon Varnedoe launched his "open
air dinner and a show" concept restaurant in 1997,
Gourmet magazine called it "edgy and gutsy"
Last summer, Varnedoe fled to New York and sold out to some ambitious Zuni Cafe kitchen staffers.Michael
Bauer claims, "the once superior attitude has been left at the door" Norcal's feared restaurant critic gets a pass on that while the rest of us receive
service styled after a snotty Parisian waiter.
The formerly mingly and friendly rear bar has been
turned into a dance club style service bar-"I gotta make some Mojito's-give me 10 minutes." Meanwhile,
plentiful staffers and service help wandered thru a near empty dining room.
What is Speck? and gelee? and brandade? "The only dish I can suggest is the duck breast."
Everybody has noticed- Gap, Safeway Stores, American
Airlines-they are grateful for your business and they
tell you. I could have been wandering the Gobi Desert
for all the notice they took as these repeat customers departed.
Watch this space-Is this the next hi-profile restaurant
2354 Mission St @ 21st
on the web at "foreigncinema.com"