Once in awhile, I crave the slightly run down, dimly lit French restaurant where, surrounded by well heeled ladies of a certain age who have time for long long lunches, I can order all the classics: celeri remoulade, coq au vin, sweatbreads, iles du neige and more. A restaurant that time and fusion-based cuisine have passed by. I used to go to Le Veau d'or but am not sure how good it is now that the owner is gone. I recently tried Sel&Poivre - which has a pleasant prix fixe menu. It was nice, but not quite the same.
I have looked at the boards here but haven't found a thread that addresses this sweet spot.