it seems to have happened silently, but, two months ago, famous deninos of staten island (si) opened an outpost in the same strip mall as stratemore bowling lanes (to stratmore's right), on route 34 in aberdeen, nj.
although si is culturally diverse-ish (of course, not really compared to queens, ny), culinarily, it is the "little italy" for which persons pine, as opposed to the tourist trap in manhattan.
from the pizza perspective, deninos is a perennial contender for best si pizza. it is a thin, crispy crust pizza, but not cracker crust. one of the amazing things about this pie is that deninos brings it just to the beginning of char without creating a cracker crust (a lot of persons hearing a description like this say "oh nOOOOO, char", but deninos seems to know to fork its tongue at the pizza oven, delivering a savory pie with amazing consistency for taking a pie so close to the edge). at least one sausage pie seems to appear on almost every table, mine included. the sausage is ground, but it clings in clusters. the average slice only has 2 clusters, some may have one cluster more or less. rule of thumb is you'll probably eat twice the amount you normally eat. with a little dicipline, a large pie is doable !!!
¿ so, how's the nj pie measure up ?
so no one gets the wrong message from what follows, let me be clear: the aberdeen pie is an top-tier pie, surely to become part of deninos aberdeen vs. vic's vs pete and elda's vs. tony's baltimore grill type of debates.
that being said, i preferred the si version. the aberdeen pie seemed less aggressively cooked, and yet, the crust had become cracker (bottom was thin crispy but not cracker). another difference was the sausage was more finely ground and more evenly dispersed.i've come to appreciate the randomness of the big clusters. to use a mad tv phrase, deninos of si "takes it to an hnl" (hole nuther level). then again, i don't doubt that these variances might be preferred by some or even many. anyway, if you haven't been to a deninos, delicious pies await you there.
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