Elmer Dills, longtime KABC-TV food critic, died yesterday in Pasadena at the age of eighty-two:
Dills, who was at his most popular in a time when Perino's was L.A.'s idea of haute cuisine, was the Jonathan Gold of an earlier generation. He may have lacked Gold's authority and sense of adventure, but he was one of the very first in southern California to point out that good food didn't have to mean linen tablecloths and expensive tabs.
"Now they fly these crab in live from Alaska every weekend. You know, in about 10 or 15 minutes, this little fellow's going to be on my plate for dinner. Wow!" -- Elmer Dills