Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area

East Ocean City, Chinatown, Boston

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Restaurants & Bars 5

East Ocean City, Chinatown, Boston

Limster | Oct 12, 2002 02:13 AM

Pretty good scallion pancakes -- crispy, light and a nice little bit of chewiness.

A just so hot and sour soup, certainly not bad, but ordinary. (I was actually eyeing a 8 treasure winter melon soup.....)

Chinese broccoli with oyster sauce is a good rendition of a simple dish, but no better than the next one. It is a simple dish afterall.

Duck and fried taro was lovely. A crispy lacy exterior is a prelude to the soft warm taro and firm duck, a very pleasant transition of textures. The dark sauce for it was nothing special however, more cornstarched than flavored.

Tender beef shortribs are expertly prepared, with a coat of dark sauce that derives sweetness from what I thought to be a fermented sweet bean sauce.

A light saute of whole calm-sized conch (I hope I got this right....) is good -- firm flesh on the shellfish and also blunt crunchy bites from another cut of the mollusk.

The steamed striped bass is good, but the sauce was a bit simple in my mind -- more sesame oil and scallions might have been better.

The tofu stir fried with vegetables was quite basic and fine, but I would have preferred more crispy and custardy texture contrasts a la agedashi tofu.

The Teochew style yee noodles was quite a treat. The sweetness of pickles are used to brighten up the seafood-heavy mix dominated by chopped clams and dried shrimp. But as usual, I enjoyed the soft but snappy texture of the noodles themselves. The flavors are quite enticing, but I think I'd still go for the more "standard" rendition with crabmeat and straw mushrooms.

On the whole, I though the meal was quite competently prepared and somewhat finessed, although I think there are more delicate hands at work elsewhere, like Jumbo and Peach Farm. Nevertheless, we never put them completely through their paces; I was intrigued by other dishes, like geoduck clam two ways, some bai hua steamed tofu or stewed sea cucumber, but we had a limited number of mouths. I thought the menu at Jumbo was a bit more interesting in the range of offerings. The white table-cloth decor is much shinier the most places in Chinatown. Prices are comparable to Jumbo and Peach Farm.

They often a number of luxurious fixed priced menus that are heavy on ingredients like sharks fin, abalone and other seafoods. The priciest one requires a few days of advance order, IIRC.

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