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Manhattan

Duane Park - a revelation

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Restaurants & Bars

Duane Park - a revelation

Liza | Aug 9, 2000 08:51 AM

What a gem!
Apps: I started with the ubiquitous tuna tartare - this time served with a tahini sauce and sesame tuille. The tuna was mixed with small pieces of avocado that imparted texture. Eaten with the crunchy tuille, it had the satisfying crunchy element mixed with the creaminess of the fish. My honey had the special warmed figs stuffed with gorgonzola, served on proscuitto. Again, not breaking any mold, but perfectly chosen ingredients combined simply and well.
Mains: I had the duck breast with apricot glaze, duck confit strudel, and sugar snap peas. It was charming having two textures of duck to compare, and the apricot glaze was subtle, not cloying.
He had seared tuna on grilled portabello mushroom, garlic polenta with a pinot noir sauce and basil oil. Served rare, as requested, this was heartbreakingly tender tuna that he barely let me sample.
We left completely satisfied and excited about this simply yet perfectly done cooking.
(and no, I have no connection to it or the chef or the owner...)

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