Great Eastern in San Francisco’s Chinatown gets mentioned more often for dim sum lunch than other meal choices. After having a quick dinner a month ago for the first time in ages, I wanted to recommend a couple dishes.
A windy and wet night, I opted to push my mother there in a folding wheelchair instead of risking walking on the slippery sidewalk. When Great Eastern’s manager spotted us approaching the entrance, he came out to help us inside to a nice table toward the back. On exit we were flanked by a couple waiters to help us out the door as well.
Tables seem to have a skosh more space around them than similar spots in Chinatown (R & G, I’m looking at you) and the interior was spiffier and brighter than I remembered. Roast ducks hung on spotlighted display behind gleaming glass.
At dinner time, house soup (old fire soup) is complimentary. This night’s was turnip and carrot with pork bones, just right for this chilly night. Our server ladled out the warming elixir in formal fashion, that is with his left hand cocked in the small of the back. He worked silently, no clanging of dishes or drips, and later returned to ask if he could serve us more.
We ordered but two dishes:
XO Beef Chow Fun, $10.50 – A huge heap, the biggest serving I can remember, with plenty of tender beef, maybe a little overly tenderized. A well-turned and delectable XO sauce expressing layers of umami and not just salt and heat, lightly charred fresh rice noodles, bean sprout “silver”, yellow leeks and scallions, stir-fried nearly dry with just the barest shimmer of oil left behind on the platter.
Oyster and Roast Pork Claypot, $11 – Served up bubbling and boiling hot, whole black mushrooms, diamonds of tender fresh ginger root, green onions, and carmelized garlic cloves played supporting yet very essential roles contributing their deep savoriness to the main named players. Lightly coated, pan-fried oysters and the pebbly skin of the cubes of roast pig absorbed the juices like sponges, releasing bursts of surf and turf flavor harmonies with each bite.
Complimentary dessert was a dried tangerine peel scented red bean soup with tapioca pearl and better than most. Our server boxed up our leftovers.
The customers in the main dining room were close to half non-Chinese, an opportunity for Mom to play one of her favorite games. She pays attention to what non-Chinese have on their tables and then judges who is clued in or not, exclaiming, “They really know how to order!” or “Those people don’t know Chinese food.” This time the ones in eyeshot did well in her book though she wondered about the stacks of eggrolls. I reminded her that we were in the middle of Chanukah and Jewish people might be fried food loading to celebrate. Looking around at other tables also made me notice how solicitous the staff are, checking back on tables, visiting with regulars, and the manager keeping a watchful eye over everything.
Considering the prices, complimentary courses, quality and service, I had to question why I’d not been here in recent years. The prices are the same level as Yuet Lee and the portions might be bigger here. Great Eastern serves until midnight in much nicer surroundings and with considerably better service than the neighbors. Great Eastern’s an easy choice for Chinatown dining.
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