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Dining at Burlap!


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Restaurants & Bars San Diego

Dining at Burlap!

steveprez | | Nov 1, 2011 06:32 PM

It’s all the rage up here in Carmel Valley and my wife wanted to give it a try. Malarkey doesn’t get much love on this board and I was reluctant based on that but in the interest of marital harmony agreed to go. I was also reluctant to take the kids but my wife wanted to spend our money on food and not babysitters. She called and asked if it was “kid friendly” and the hostess said “yes” but suggested we come early. So we arrived at 5:00 on a Friday evening and there were already several dozen people waiting for them to open.

The Setting

One can only describe the setting of Burlap as a complete failure and I certainly would not have chosen this particular location. First of all, it’s in the Del Mar Highlands mall, which is a nice place for daily shopping and services but not a great environment for fine dining, IMHO. Burlap is in the corner of the mall with limited access and thus parking is a real challenge. They have a valet but the limited access makes getting in and out challenging and there were a lot of frustrated people and confused valet attendants. Chaos! IMO, this is an important part of the fine dining experience. Compare this to arriving at say Addison in the peaceful, very low stress environment there.

Second, Burlap is in the corner of the mall closest to the intersection of Del Mar Heights and El Camino Real. Both major thoroughfares and each is six lanes wide. Burlap’s open air section is just next to this intersection. Though it’s walled off by thick glass and the traffic din is not that bad, you definitely hear it when a truck or Harley goes by. Certainly not conducive to fine dining and conversation.

The Décor

The décor at Burlap is kinda overdone Asian tchotchke. Above the interior bar are several of the very colorful dragon heads that you’d see on a Chinese New Year dragon. There’s a large dragon suspended over the dining tables. The exterior bar is done up in Asian woods with a lot of Asian knick-knacks scattered about. They’ve installed a koi pond in the outdoor section. There’s also a gazebo/palapa in the outdoor section that is somewhat separate but wouldn’t be described as private. On the plus side, the kitchen is visible through glass walls. IMO, the décor, while all of the individual aspects are interesting, comes across as overdone and to me, too visually stimulating and not conducive to fine dining.

The Vibe

Burlap is not so much a restaurant but a restaurant-nightclub hybrid. To me the nightclub aspect detracts significantly from the dining experience as they’re pumping loud, heavy music into the dining area. It’s crowded and noisy with a lot of non-diners drinking and speaking loudly. And of course, being in Carmel Valley, the crowd has been described as “Cougar-ish” ;) .

The Beer

I have to give Burlap credit for focusing their four taps on local craft brews. Including the smaller, more rare breweries such as Iron Fist and Airdale. These were the two I had and both were very good and properly served. I’d decided to stick with beer given focus on spicy Asian flavors.

The Wine

Burlap has what can only be described as a very eclectic wine list. They have “interesting” wines from various winegrowing regions around the world. There were very few wines on the list that I could even recognize (and I’d condsider myself very vell versed in wine) and thus I cannot comment on quality or price point. I suspect that it’s by design that they’ve developed such a wine list.

The Food

Sweet potato fries – Well done! Cooked to crispy and not soggy at all. Served with a garlic-ginger aoli that was delicious and not heavy. Everyone, including the kids, enjoyed immensely.

Sticks – Burlaps term for skewered meats. We ordered a number of these as the kids are fans and each came with a paired sauce: chicken balls (balsamic teriyaki), chicken satay (peanut sauce), beef sirloin (chipotle-eel BBQ sauce), Asian pork sausage (“cowboy remoulade”) and salmon belly (sweet miso). The kids ate most of this and loved all of them, liking the Asian sausage the best. Though my wife and I also tried each one and were favorably impressed across the board!. The meats were all cooked nicely, moist, not overcooked. All of the sauces, while creative and “non-traditional” paired very well.

Hamachi and jalapeno – A Nobu specialty and we’ve had this at Nobu or Matsuhisa restaurants several times. Burlap served with an onion ponzu sauce. We both agreed that this was at least as good as if not better than Nobu’s. Large fresh, tender pieces of fish!

Spicy tuna on crispy rice – This was an out of the ordinary dish (though when I described to a friend she mentioned that they did something similar in Puerto Rico). Essentially a spicy albacore with a chili caper mayonnaise on top of a block of rice like a nigiri sushi, but the rice is crispy. This was the highlight of the evening. The flavor was very interesting, spicy but not too much so, and the contrast between the soft fish and crispy rice was very enticing! Knock your socks off good!

Foie gras – Served with a blackberry marmalade. This appeared well done but we had a “sequencing” issue here. Having the foie gras after the two spicy fish dishes made it difficult to fully experience the subtle flavors and textures. I’ll not comment further on the quality. It was a mistake to order in this sequence. A sharp server may have caught this but the fault lies with us.

Sesame crusted brie – This was a sesame seed (black and white) crusted brie baked and served with a mango jam. This was the one dish that seemed to miss the mark. I found it to be a good combination of flavors but a poor combination of textures. The sesame crust was very rigid and well, crusty, whilst the baked brie was runny as expected. Made it difficult to enjoy. I’m not sure if this was cooked longer than it was supposed to be or not. Perhaps it was a kitchen error and not a bad recipe. We mentioned to our server and he was going to inquire (though we didn’t leave him much of a sample) but we or he neglected to follow up.

The Service

I have to say that in our experience the service was excellent. Our waiter was engaging and knowledgeable about the menu and dishes without being overbearing. The accessory servers (noticeably all beautiful young women, BTW) were all on the ball. We were impressed enough to leave a very good tip.

The Verdict

Overall, the food here ranged from very good to knock-your-socks-off good! I was very impressed by the food. On the other hand, the setting, décor and nightclub atmosphere are definite drawbacks IMO. On the whole, I’m not very interested in returning. If I were to return for the food, I’d likely visit on a Tuesday or Wednesday to avoid the nightclub crowd.

My $0.02.

207 Fifth Avenue, San Diego, CA 92101

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