Found this new place, a new (as of last December) Nepali hole-in-the-wall that has taken over the Tawa chapati bakery on Broadway in Jackson Heights. It's really, really good.
The Samay Baji is excellent; I had the beef version, which included a wonderfully spiced beef with the usual suspects (pounded rice, pickles, chili soybeans, etc.). It had a small centerpiece of what seemed to be pickled gundruk; I asked and the waitress confirmed, though there was a language barrier.
Their sukuti thali was very good, though they err a little on the bitter side in terms of overall flavor.
I enjoy the thalis I've had at Thakali Kitchen more, but I'd vote Dhaulagiri for the Samay Baji. Either way, it's a very good place.