I've always been a big fan of Craft. Which is surprising, given that I always thought Gramercy Tavern was way overrated. But from my very first meal at Craft, soon after it opened, I realized it deserved all the lavish praise I got. The finest ingredients, simply yet perfectly prepared. What's not to like about that? I hadn't eaten there in several years until today, but based on today's lunch they are still at the top of their game.
They told me on the telephone that Craft was booked solid through Feb. 1. So I went down and snagged one of the unreserved seats at the bar. A plethora of choices! 12 appetizers, 10 mains, 10 side vegetable dishes, and 5 desserts. So there are about 6 thousand possible meals you can have. I had pasta to start, in an iron bowl with stewed duck confit and a vegetable a lot like collard greens. Very good. My main dish was braised codfish cheeks. I always liked the braised dishes best and this was wonderful. Perfect fish, with vague hints of several different spices and red wine. Dessert was a banana tart, perfectly baked, with yummy caramel ice cream.
So if you're a fan of Tom Colicchio, head on over there. And even if you're not an admirer, go to this lunch. You'll come out a fan.
Note: I noticed that Craftbar around the corner had a RW lunch menu that also had ten choices for apps and entrees, and 5 desserts... in case you can't get in to Craft.
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