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Restaurants & Bars Manhattan

Corvo Bianco

coasts | | Jul 19, 2013 05:28 AM

The opening night at Corvo Bianco coincided with Monday's philharmonic performance in Central Park just a few blocks away. my wife and i took this as opportunity to try it, knowing there could be missteps in service due to it being the first seating - and there were, but this isn't about that.

The space is gorgeous - as modern and clean as it is rustic. The main dining room is very open and airy, with light pouring in through the high ceiling and long skylight. There's a large bar and a few tables up front in a casual, farmhouse-type room, giving the feeling of being at a winery. with 30 bottles under 30 dollars, this space should remain full.

First course pasta - pappardelle with short rib ragu - was excellent. we shared it and politely fought over the last bites. i was less impressed with my entree - the porchetta with fennel, which was overcooked despite being told it's served medium. My wife's grilled branzino was more successful - served whole, but de-boned. We shared roasted carrots in yogurt with peanuts as a side, which sounded more interesting than it was. I thought back to a similar sounding dish at Ma Peche last summer - snap peas with yogurt, peanuts and coffee grinds - and wished Corvo Bianco's dish had something more to it.

As Elizabeth Falkner is known for her desserts, we ended the meal with fresh blueberries and whipped cheesecake. Very reminiscent of something you'd have at The Spot. A deconstructed classic dessert that wasn't lost in concept.

We'll certainly be back, possibly tonight for a drink in the bar room.