I was introduced by an El Paso native and first ate here about ten years ago. I was smitten. Walking from downtown, across freeway overpasses to a questionable part of town was a new experience for me and one I am very glad to have taken on my first steps to a new life as a young widow. The Tex-Mex (?) food served in this decidedly unfrilly, bizarre spot is cause for my long-range love affair even if it is only available for breakfast and lunch. How could anyone not love the salsa-verde-of-the-gods that can be substituted for the more familiar red sauce when requested, "Si Senora, todo es possible". What a concept -- "everything is possible" -- would that more restaurants took this approach - feed the customer.
My huevos rancheros con salsa verde made me swoon even before the homemade flour tortillas were brought. Everything was perfectly cooked to order in this funny little three table, ten stool dinette that will also hand-wash your car. Saveur magazine did a piece on this El Paso gem about ten years ago and absolutely nothing has changed - it remains wonderful.
Much of the the staff has been stable for more than a dozen years and their dedication bears testimony to the consistency that marks H & H. Saturday's menudo special is benchmark for menudo, ditto for the chorizo and eggs. Simple dishes prepared perfectly are the hallmark of H & H. In the words of Michelin, "worth the detour" but only if you have a willing spirit and joyous heart coupled with anticipatory taste buds! Fancy, it ain't.
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