This is the second part of my post (have posted a review on the first part of our trip in Positano) regarding Capri. We spent 4 glorious nights in Capri, loving it so much that we cancelled our one night in Naples so we could squeeze in some extra time on this island. I still regret not being able to try the pizza in Naples but we'll be back for sure.
Before each dinner, we'd head to Hotel Qvisisana for cocktails which was a great place to people watch. The champagne with small wild strawberries was a favourite drink.
Here is where we ate:
Weds lunch - Il Geranio: tuna tartar, shrimp cocktail, black tagliolini served with monkfish ragout, veal escalope with mushroom sauce, and lemon cake. The pasta and veal were the highlghts. The monkfish was so delicately cooked that at first bite, I almost thought they were scallops. I can't fault the 2 seafood starters but they were just okay, no popping flavours and I definitely wouldn't recommend the lemon cake which reminded me of supermarket cake. The terrace is a beautiful spot to have lunch and the staff were very friendly, even insisting they take our picture even though I never ask waiters to do this. One weird thing is one waiter overheard us checking to see if service was included and when we confirmed that 15% had been included, he leaned over and told us that they didn't get the tip and that "it went straight to the mister". We were a bit flustered so we ended up leaving another 15% on top but somehow the exchange came across as a bit odd. €140 excl add'n tip (7/10)
Weds dinner - Da Gemma (not affiliated with Amalfi restaurant). We asked our hotel for the best pizza place in Capri and this is where he sent us. It is up the stairs leading from the piazza and a popular spot with locals and tourists. I finally had caprese salad with buffalo mozzarella (totally hit the spot), vegetable soup (not a lot of stock and a whole lot of potatoes, needed seasoning), Diavola pizza with pepperoni, Friarielli and sausage pizza (friarielli is a kind of long green vegetable that is peppery with a slight bitter tang - I was dying for any green leafy vegetable now that wasn't a grilled eggplant or zucchini), and lemon ricotta cake. Pizzas were good (not as good as Taverna del Leone in Positano) as was the dessert. €90 (7/10)
Thurs lunch - Da Gelsomina alla Migiliara. We took a taxi up to Anacapri and then walked from the bus drop-off point towards the cable car and did a lovely walk down Migliera. It's a leisurely 25-30 minute walk to the restaurant but I know you can arrange for a shuttle if you wish (we needed the exercise!). We started with the saute misto of clams & mussels, mixed salad with veggies that tasted like they were from the garden, pezzogna (type of sea bass I believe that is a deep ocean fish) with potato crust and capers "Pesce in crosta con olive", spaghetti with tomatoes and basil and a dessert I can't remember. The pezzogna was delicious and a must try while you're there, perfectly succulent meaty white fish. Pasta was honest and delicious. It was simple family setting and it felt like Grandma was in the kitchen. €105 (8.5/10)
Thurs dinner - La Grotelle. This is about a 15 minute walk from the centre of Capri and has a stunning view overlooking the Natural Arches. It might be better to go during the day to fully appreciate the view. We started off with yet another delicious caprese salad with buffalo mozzarella, and as suggested by the waiter, stuffed peppers which were delicious - filled with mixed vegetables and cheese. For the main, we had a type of grilled white fish with tomatoes and olives. It's a casual setting, the view is its major selling point, but the food is all wonderfully prepared and very fresh. €135 (8/10)
Fri lunch - La Fontelina via Faraglioni. On this day, we actually hired a boat to take us around the island for 2 hours (absolutey not to be missed) before it dropped us off at the restaurant. The restaurant is surrounded by rocks so one of their small boats will come out & collect you. We had sauted shellfish (I know again!) but this time it had razor clams which was the first time we had it in this dish, fish carpaccio (was okay, vastly pale in comparison to the dish at La Cambusa in Positano), octopus carpaccio (slightly overcooked), spaghetti with tomatoes & argula with capers (we asked for capers to be added) and finished with millefeuille of hazelnut chocolate cream & cherries. It was good but not amazing, however it was the perfect way to end the boat trip. €130 (6.5/10)
Fri dinner - Da Giorgio. We decided to come here because one of our local waiters at La Fontelina at lunch said this was his favourite restaurant in Capri. Be sure to make reservations, it was packed. I would recommend making reservations for ALL restaurants in Capri. Had the caprese salad, home made green pasta with scampi, capriciossa pizza with salami, ham & mushrooms (which were unfortunately canned), and tiramisu (not bad). It was clearly a popular spot with locals and families but we thought overall it was only average in comparison to our other meals so far. €115 (6/10)
Sat lunch - Terrazza Brunella via Tragara. After a lovely walk past the restaurant heading into the forest, we doubled back and had lunch here. We asked for the crabmeat salad but we were told this was unavailable so we asked if they would do a saute misto for us which wasn't on the menu and they were happy to oblige. I had caprese salad and it ended up being the BEST one we had on the trip, "pachero bruenlla" with searobin fish, zucchini flower, and cherry tomatoes, and my husband had the "polpetti veraci alla vesuvia" stewed baby octopus in a sun dried tomato sauce with spinach. Dessert was a chocolate cream with pear tart. My pasta was excellent, but was a bit disappointed that the zucchini flower was dissolved in the sauce, I had hoped to try it on its own. The octopus was tender but they left it as a whole baby octopus so imagine two small octopus facing each other on the plate which sort of weirded my husband out. It didn't bother me and I cut it all up for him, however I did find the sun dried tomato sauce a bit overwhelming. The tart was homemade and devoured. Another gorgeous view, attentive service and a quiet place at lunch time which we generally prefer. €110 (7.5/10)
Sat dinner - Edode. Our first choice had been Aurora but repeated attempts to get a reservation were denied so if you want to eat here for dinner, you need to make a reservation with as much advance time as possible. Our hotel recommended Edode in its place as we wanted something a bit dressier for our last night in Capri. It is indeed quite a trendy looking restaurant and near the end of our meal, a group arrived announced by flashing paparazzi pictures - turns out they were heroes of a well known Italian soccer team. I was a bit underwhelmed by my meal. True, we did splurge so our wine was €65 and our main meal, a grilled red snapper cooked Mediterranean style with white wine and potatoes, was €75 but I felt that I definitely had better food elsewhere. It was good, but didn't seem worth the value unless I suppose you factored in paying for being in a trendy spot. I'd much rather pay for extraordinary food. We started with the "Il Crudo dal Mare" which was a degustation of seabass carpaccio, tuna tartare and raw shrimp. The carpaccio was sliced razor thin and very good, tuna tartare was so so - fresh but lacked any real depth in flavour. Neither of us like raw shrimp so we asked for this to be omitted. My husband had the pasta with shrimp & cherry tomatoes and olives; the sauce had a very intense shrimp taste - I liked it, he thought it was too strong. I had the pasta with scorpion fish and cherry tomatoes - no complaints. The fish was absolutely massive, we should have told him we wanted a portion for one to share between of us but that was our fault as logically he would have assumed we wanted it for two people. Again, grilled perfectly and super fresh. We finished with a white chocolate flan, but it was more like a molten white chocolate cake with mandarin oranges. €295, Score 7/10.
And that's it! Will definitely go back to Capri, it was a true R&R vacation and a beautiful place to visit.
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