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Burgers, recently: Underwhelmed at Tasty Burger, new bun at the Cellar

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Burgers, recently: Underwhelmed at Tasty Burger, new bun at the Cellar

celeriac | May 10, 2011 02:50 PM

I know that the burger conversations verge on the endless around here, but here are some recent notes on two recent burgers I ate.

I found the burger at Garden at the Cellar improved over my first try about a year ago - and I had liked it fine then! The big surprise was the bun, which is now a totally generic, standard commercial bulkie, rather than the too-sweet brioche that was one of my only gripes the last time around. This one isn't exciting, but it works just fine and might get exciting with a little buttered griddle action. (I have a fear that perhaps they just ran out of the brioche or something, but if this is the new bun I am very pleased that the burgerscenti's preference for non-brioche rolls wore them down.)

I also believe that they have changed meat suppliers. I didn't quiz them, but the menu now specifies local beef, whereas before I believe it was (non-local) Meyer Ranch. If so, I applaud both the local sourcing and the improved quality. While a big less fatty than my ideal, it has a better, cleaner flavor than I recall from Meyer beef, and was adequately juicy. Finally, they were happy to make their excellent fries without truffle oil, yielding what I certainly consider to be the best in town. All in all a definite winner!

Meanwhile, on the other side of town, I tried a single cheeseburger at Tasty Burger and was somewhat disappointed. On the plus side, I appreciated the squishy bun, the iconic burger architecture, and the nice size (I prefer a smaller burger). But the beef itself was disappointing - a bit mushy, too fine a grind, underseasoned and low on flavor. The char of their (gas?) grill was the primary flavor, and as such it sort of reminded me of a ski hill burger. Much better than I'd expect at a ski hill, but definitely not exciting in Boston.

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Tasty Burger
1301 Boylston St, Boston, MA 02116

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