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brunch at Union

MC Slim JB | Mar 17, 2004 09:33 AM

Got to a recent Sunday brunch at Union. It's weird to see the dining room in daylight, but nice: they drop thin curtains over the windows, so it's bright but not blinding.

Great cappuccino to start, excellent filter coffee later. Two outstanding brunch plates: possibly the best cod cakes I have ever tasted (fresh, meaty, lightly crispy outside), and a Cobb salad (really fine slab bacon on this). Very good homefries (thin-sliced potatoes, maybe a bit of fennel), and a sprinkling of a variety of fresh herbs on everything, something I remember from dinner here that is a fabulous touch.

Our waiter disappeared for a good 10 minutes after taking our orders and delivering our second round of coffee. We were just starting to wonder about this pause when the manager came by to check on us. She hustled into the kitchen and presumably kicked some butt when she saw our bare table. We hadn't squawked, but brunch was quickly forthcoming, and quite worth the small wait.

The place was half-full despite a recent rave brunch review in the Globe. Once the South End brunch crowd discovers it, that won't last (but they do take reservations, and it runs till 3p). This was easily the best brunch I've had locally in a long time. Most dishes in the low teens.

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