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Bronzini- Midtown Italian Miracle

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Bronzini- Midtown Italian Miracle

Vinnie Vidimangi | Jul 26, 2005 06:08 PM

Bronzini
2140 Yonge St, between 5 Doors North and Zucca
Nice room, very good patio
open 7 days
we never have had a problem getting free parking on Duplex
416-487-3336

We found Bronzini on the way to a Zucca Summerlicious; Bronzini is two doors south. They had just opened, at the perhaps the worst time. In the middle of summer when half its likely clientele is on vacation; in the middle of a heat wave which discourages walk- by traffic so they stay unknown; at the beginning of Summerlicious, when recreational eaters are busy elsewhere. Needless to say it was empty except for staff. We permitted ourselves to be accosted by the restaurant staff standing in the door but kept going to Zucca. Zucca was a litlle gem, emphasis on both words. If we had to take the Queen to dinner, Zucca is where we would go. We were to have another round of Zucca , but walking by saw Bronzini's prix fix menu and went in, cancelling Zucca. Bronzini is a very different kettle of zuppa pesce, but very worthwhile and (for the time being) an enormous bargain; a large, good, four course $60-70 meal for $24.95.

The chef owner has just come from Philadelphia, South Philly, where he also had a restaurant. My understanding of Italian cooking (which is limited by choice)leads me to think that Bronzini is fine dining but for trenchermen. Lots to eat, good ingredients, sauces etc, but no fooling around and sometimes not quite as refined as as one might like for "fine dining". But that's OK, the cooking is very tasty and the room and patio are very nice.

So we sat down and were given a nice bread basket and a large portion of treated black olives in a pool of olive oil and basalmic. Delicious. Thereafter what we ordered. First came two salads, arugala with Parmesan, mesculan with goat cheese. Enormous, nice dressings, tasty, can't understand why they were so big. The chef seems to like to play sweet in the cheese against bitter and salty in one and tart in the other.

Then we got the mixed pasta plate. Gnocchi in a cheese sauce, bow ties in a tomato basil, and noodles in a gentle arabiata. I have had better gnocchi (Marco della Fontana at The Big Ragu) but they were OK, the sauce was tasty and the other two pastas were quite good.

At this stage the Ms. was ready for coffee; I did well to have gone hungry. But her veal chop showed up. Good and large, with potatoes and vegetables. A $30 main and I won't go into the business of charging extra for sides. Most of the chop ended up in a doggie bag to be enjoyred by a child for lunch the next day. I had the grilled whole fish, no bronzini that day so I asked for the spigola. The chef wanted to fillet it, I declined, and suggest that you do the same. It too came with sides; I liked the whole dish a lot.

Dessert was a choice of cakes . We chose to share one, it was OK. We asked if it was made in house and were told that it had been brought in, but a pastry chef would be arriving and they would be house made thereafter.

Anyway, all of this was only $24.95.

The prix fix is a choice of two salads, the mixed pasta, one of five choices from the grill off the regular menu, a choice of dessert. Burp.

If you are interested in going for the prix fix, you should call to find out if it is still on. You don't have to know too much to figure out that the prix fix is promotional to bring in some customers and can't go on for too long.

VVM

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