Restaurants & Bars Outer Boroughs


Jim Leff | | Dec 12, 2012 09:02 PM

Tried it tonight. Surprised there's not more discussion here.

First, I'm sorry that I'm not knowledgable enough about BBQ techniques to be able to analyze the roots of the problems. But, empirically, the brisket has a fat, cushy (not crusty) layer of what seems to be pretty much just crushed black peppercorns. And so the aroma, flavor, and aftertaste is pretty much just that: black peppercorn. Much more so than beef, smoke, or any other aspect. You'd better really really like black peppercorns if you're going to eat here. Did I mention that it's really all about black peppercorns? Even now, hours later, I'm exhaling black peppercorns. Lots of black peppercorns. Black peppercorns.

The brisket itself is well past the tender point and devolving into mushiness. One could easily gum this meat, and that's not proper Texas 'cue. That's the brisket. The ribs are worse: flavorless and ho-hum; much, much less appealing than the brisket. My companion and I tried the ribs, then competed for the remaining brisket. Plenty of black peppercorn in the ribs, though. The black peppercorn thing is a constant. Did I mention black peppercorns?

Sides are charming but amateurish. Slaw is honest, clearly hand-chopped, but pretty much flat-lines the deliciometer. Same for potato salad.

I tried the apple custard pie, and it was pretty good. But a small $5 slice of pretty good pie is not much of a draw. It's not pie you'd buy twice in a bakery.

I'm assuming the dude who sliced my meet was Delaney. He seems to be preemptively staking out a larger-than-life, arrogant persona for himself. Healthy ego, cart before horse, etc.. And that's accptable; there are guys in Austin doing likewise. But if the meat doesn't stand up, and it's really really expensive, then the whole thing starts feeling faux.

I'm not saying it's bad. It's nearly decent. But the value's low, and the precious vibe seems a graft-on. Pie-baking cashier woman seems really nice and sincere, though. I wish her baking was better.

Oh, well.

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